Our jewelry may be basically divided
into two distinct processes, both of which are used with either
silver or 14k gold – depending on
the design and effect desired.
Constructed
or fabricated jewelry. Beginning with the selected stone, pearl
or dichroic glass “gemstone”, we sketch designs for
the final piece of jewelry – ending up with a full size
drawing that we can use as a template. We then transfer the design
to sheet sterling silver or gold and saw out the final form utilizing
a jeweler’s saw. This form is refined utilizing files and
sandpaper. A thin metal bezel is wrapped around the selected stone,
cut to size and then soldered to the basic sheet metal design.
Other details and settings are fabricated and attached in a similar
manner. This assembly is then processed through several chemical
and abrasive steps which remove fire scale and oxide, preparing
the piece for final setting and polishing, utilizing various buffing
wheels.
Lost-wax
cast jewelry. As with fabricated jewelry, we begin with the basic
stone or pearl to be set, sketching designs from which we select
one to be completed. We then, working in a combination of sheet
and carving wax, form a wax model, duplicating the setting design
selected. This process includes carving solid wax into shape and
applying molten wax with special heated pens to achieve the rough
form. This form is then refined using files, sandpaper and solvents
to smooth and finish the surface. The completed wax is then invested
in a refractory investment and the wax is melted out of the investment
in a high-temperature furnace, creating an exact duplicate cavity
of the original design. Molten metal (gold or silver) is then
poured into the cavity creating the final form of the piece. Finishing
of the piece is the same as for fabricated pieces, concluding
with buffing the finished surface.
The
last step of any piece, whether fabricated or cast, is hand signing
the back of the completed jewelry to signify the fact that each
piece is totally hand crafted by the two of us.